Wednesday, December 31, 1997

Valley of the Kings and Queens, Karnak and Luxor Temples and New Years Eve in Luxor

We landed in Luxor and took a ferry to the west bank



















The Valley of the Kings…

The Valley of the Kings was the royal cemetery for 62 Pharohs, and is located on the west bank at Luxor. The only entrance to this place was a long narrow winding path. This was a secret place, where sentries were placed at the entrance of the Valley, as well as along the top of the hills, in the hopes of discouraging tomb robbers, who had in the past plundered all royal tombs










We visited the Tombs of Ramses VI—just opened after years of restoration… It was exceptionally beautiful with painted reliefs… then the Tomb of Ramses IX
and finally, the Tomb of Tutankhaman # 62—the guard at the tomb is the grandson of an Egyptian that worked with Harold Carter.











And finally, we saw the Tomb of Ramses I #16—a very steep incline.
Then it was off to the Valley of the Queens… It contains about 70 tombs, mainly belonging to Queens, Princesses, Princes and Nobles, who lived during the XIX and XX Dynasties. In general, these tombs are smaller than the ones of the Kings. The plans of these tombs usually consist of a small antechamber, a long narrow corridor with several side chambers, and at the end - the burial chamber.
* Tomb 44 belongs to Prince Khaem-waset, who was a son of Ramses III. He died at the young age of 9. It consists of 2 long corridors, with 2 side chambers, and a square burial chamber. The walls of this tomb are decorated with various painted scenes, some of them representing the Prince with different deities, and with his father in front of the deities of the after world.










One of the most important tombs in the valley is the one that belongs to the famous Queen Nefertari, the principal consort of King Ramses II - The Temple of Deir El-Bahri was built of limestone, not sandstone like most of the other funerary temples of the New Kingdom period. It is thought that Senimut, the architect who built this Temple, was inspired in his design by the plan of the neighboring mortuary Temple of the 12th Dynasty King, Neb-Hept-Re. The Temple was built for Queen Hatshepsut (18th Dynasty), to commemorate her achievements and to serve as a funerary Temple for her, as well as a sanctuary of the God, Amon Ra.













Colossus of Memnon These two, gigantic figures of Amenhotep III were originally situated in front of his Mortuary temple, which was destroyed. The two colossi are made of sandstone, which during ancient times was brought from Gabal El Silselah. Each colossus, including the pedestal and the crown, is about 69 feet tall and represents King Amenhotep III seating on his throne, wearing the royal headdress, with the divine cobra protecting his forehead. On the sides of the colossi there is a representation of the Nile god Hapi, bending together the lotus and the papyrus plants, symbolizing the union of Upper and Lower Egypt.












Back to the ferry…. Our guide arranged a special tour for us of Tomb of Nefartari… This tomb was closed for 20 years and allows only 150 people per day. We were alone in the tomb. The paintings on the tomb walls depict Nefertari's journey after death to the afterlife, guided by various guardian-spirits and deities, including Isis, Hathor, and Osiris. Nefertari was one of several Queens of Rameses II, 1290-1224BC. Her name means “the most beautiful.”










We got the ferry back to the boat
That afternoon, we had a tour to Karnak and Luxor Temples.

The Temple of Karnak is the largest Temple in the World. The complex contains a group of Temples such as the Great Temple of Amon Ra, The Temple of Khonso, The Ipt Temple, The Temple of Ptah, the Temple of Montho and the Temple of the God Osiris. A 65 foot high, mud brick enclosure wall, surrounded all of these buildings.

The Temple of Luxor was built in the reign of Amenhotep III and added to significantly by Rameses II, who had colossal statues of himself erected at the complex.










































We got to escape group mode and headed to the bank (our guide said he was going to go home, close all the drapes and have a beer… it was a tough day with some very obnoxious American tourists…) We headed off to see some local color alone.
We stopped at a local restaurant and asked if they serve beer. They directed us to a second floor dive and had kebab and korfa (and beer, no label, they covered the bottled with napkins). great food.

We walked the streets of Luxor to get a little taste of real life
We took an “Egyptian Cadillac” to the “Winter Palace”, Agatha Christie’s hotel in “Death on the Nile” and had "stellas" at the bar.
We met an Egyptian in the travel business. He calls the Brits “fish and chips” and said that “after Aquilli Lauro, the Americans stopped coming to Egypt. Now they have to deal with the Japanese”… and his best quote - “When you deal with the French, you either go blind or you go bankrupt”. Best time to visit Egypt—October November January or pre Christmas (Dec 8-13)
We got the Egyptian Cadillac back to the boat (10L). Cost for the “Cadillac”—15000L, for the horse - 3-4000L
Dinner on the boat…we paid Hanni NOT to serve us more food… dessert- crepes suzette. John said, “Stay with me on this, you’ve got to stop the food…”
Mehmet delivered a bottle of wine to our room. We watched Thelma and Louise on TV and welcomed in the New Year.

Tuesday, December 30, 1997

Watching the Nile flow
















Edfu… the most important monument in the city of Edfu is the Temple of Horus










We took a horse carriage and ran into a traffic jam—Arab style… horse carriages filled with tourists. We got # 97…

We spent the afternoon…watching the Nile flow…

Monday, December 29, 1997

Cruising the Nile



















Photo courtesy of Flickr
First on our tour- the unfinished obelisk It lies, in its original location, in a granite quarry in Aswan. It is 138 feet in length and was probably abandoned when cracks appeared in the rock during its construction. Had it been completed, it would have been the heaviest obelisk ever cut in Ancient Egypt, weighing nearly 1100 tons! It is believed that it was constructed and abandoned during the reign of Queen Hatshepsut (18th Dynasty).

Temples of Philae…Philae Island was a rocky island in the middle of the River Nile, south of Aswan. The Ancient Egyptians built a Temple on this island for the Goddess Isis, but the Temple became submerged after the first Aswan dam was built in 1906, and it was not until the seventies that a number of countries banded together and attempted to save the Temple. All these countries, together with UNESCO, selected a suitable place, but they had to wait until the completion of the High Dam, in 1971, which would stabilize the level of the water around their chosen island. The new island was called Egilica (also called Agilika), and it was completely reshaped to imitate Philae Island as closely as possible. A cofferdam was built around the Temple and the water was drained. Next, the Temple was dismantled and transferred, stone by stone, from the submerged Philea Island to the redesigned Egilica Island. The project took over 9 years and the Temple of Philae was reopened in 1980.


Back to the boat…cruising down river north to the Temple of Kom Ombo dedicated to the God Sobek, the crocodile God, together with his wife, the Goddess Hathor.







The vendor's call around Kom Ombo… “See you later alligator…on the Nile crocodile”
John shopped for a galabeia…. the guy tried to sell him the clothes off his back…

Sunday, December 28, 1997

Aswan and Abu Simbal

We had a 5:00 wakeup call --at 6:00 we were off to the airport. We had a 7:30 flight to Luxor/Aswan.business class.

We stopped for a view of the Aswan Dam before getting on another flight for Abu Simbal. Work on the dam began in January 1960 and was completed in the spring of 1971. The dam was built with financial and technolgical aid from the Soviet Union (after Western nations refused to help).









The flight to Abu Simbal was a nightmare with a stepping, pushing shoving Japanese tour group and no seat assignments…
We arrived in Abu Simbal at 12:30… and had to leave by 2:00

Abu Simbal…The Temples of Abu Simbel are located close to the southern border with the Sudan. The site consists of two, rock-cut Temples, which both date back to the reign of King Ramses II (1290-1223 BC). These temples suffered from the raising water of Lake Nasser while the Aswan Dam was being built. To save them the two Temples were cut in to pieces, and then they were reconstructed on a site that was higher and further inland to escape the rising water level. This operation began in June 1964 and was completed in September 1968.

The first Temple was built by King Ramses II. The façade has four seated colossi of the King; each one is about 60 feet tall and represents the King seated on his throne wearing the double crown, accompanied by 3 small figures of his wives, daughters and sons flanking his legs.













The Temple of Queen Nefertari was also built by Ramses II, dedicated to the Goddess Hathor and to his wife Queen Nefertari. Queen Nefertari was the principal, and the most beloved, wife of King Ramses II. It contains 6 standing colossi. Four of them represent Ramses II and the other two represent Queen Nefertari, each is accompanied by two smaller figures of their children.













Back to Aswan…onto the Sonesta Nile Sun Goddess - our home for the Nile Cruise. We were a bit cranky- twin beds and a dining room filled with French and Japanese tourists…. and aa sanitary landfill engineer from Georgia who talked at 100 decibels - we called him “double bourbon”…
We had beers with our new friend, Mahmood, at the bar.
Dinner was a buffet…. meat with sauce on rice….
We moved our beds together and crashed early.

Saturday, December 27, 1997

Exploring Cairo

Today we explored Old Cairo

The Citadel…The construction of the Citadel of Saladin was started by King Saladin in 1170 A.D, and completed by his brother, King El-Addel.
Muhammad Ali Mosque
Old Cairo…

Al Muallaqa (The Hanging Church)…The Hanging Church is considered the oldest church in the area of Al-Fustat (Old Cairo). It is known as Al-Muallaka (the hanging) because it was built on the ruins of two old towers that remained from an old fortress called the Fortress of Babylon. It was dedicated to The Virgin Mary and St. Dimiana. It has played a pivotal role in the history of the Coptic Christian Church.

Coptic Museum
St Sargius Church…The church is considered as one of the sites visited by the Holy Family during their escape from King Herod to the land of Egypt.….the oldest Christian Church in Egypt











Ben Ezra Synagogue.. oldest Egyptian synagogue…. It is believed that the site of the Synagogue was where the box of Baby Moses was found and that he grew up in the temple




Egyptian Museum.overwhelming…. especially the King Tut exhibit -- we saw Tuts’ guts bucket…
Khan el Khalili Bazaar….

























We got back to the hotel and had beers and and tried the local custom- the Shi-sha (water pipe) ..




Friday, December 26, 1997

Memphis - The Pyramids!

Up at 7:00. We drove to Memphis, the Capital of the Old Empire
Our first stop was Saqquara…the "City of the Dead" . While Memphis was the capital of Ancient Egypt, Saqquara served as its necropolis. It remained an important complex for minor burials for more than 3,000 years - well into Roman time.


The Step Pyramid - ca. 2650 BC - was built by the architect Imhotep for the III Dynasty king Djoser. It is the oldest complete mud-brick building complex in the world.
Tomb of Mereruka…The tomb was built in the memory of Mereruka who was an official to Teti, the Pharaoh of the VI Dynasty. Mereruka was known as ‘Chief Justice and Vizier’. The scenes of domestic life were truly touching.

Pyramids of Giza….There are three main Pyramids here, which were built in the 4th Dynasty (circa 4650 B.C)- Cheops, Chephren, Mycerinus….

And, of course, the Sphinx













The open air Museum, which amongst other artefacts exhibits a limestone colossus of King Ramses II (an enormous statue carved in limestone, which is about 34 feet long,and a giant alabaster Sphinx, weighting more than 80 tons, which once stood outside the massive temple of the God Ptah.


Mortuary Temple and Valley Temple of Chephren -part of the funerary complex
Papyrus Institute…tourist rip-off
Back to the hotel…we had burgers, listening to a combination of rap music and Christmas carols
We walked into a Egyptian wedding…a video event complete with tambourines, bagpipes, snake charmers and ululation….

Thursday, December 25, 1997

Christmas Day in Cairo

We arrived in Cairo at 11:00 p.m.
Airport Sign: “If you’re caught dealing with drugs, you will be hanged by the neck until dead or live your life in prison plus receive a 500L fine.”
We stayed at the Club level at the Ramses Hilton. It was John, Debbie and the Japanese….

Wednesday, December 24, 1997

Egypt Map and Route


From Boston to Cairo

We arrived in London at 5:30 a.m. and had a $90 cab ride to Alice and Zack’s (the special Christmas rate!)
We caught a few hours of sleep at Alice’s before Christmas Lunch with the family, and then it was back to Heathrow.
British Airways to Cairo

Friday, October 17, 1997

From Tehran to Boston



The day that never ends…. 6:00 am up, 7:00 am on the bus.


Then we drove west along the Caspian shore through Rasht to Masule , a small mountain village with house built into the hillside. We walked around the town for an hour.








The route – Tehran to Karaj along the River Rud-e Chalus. Then to Rasht to Qazvin via the Sarfid River.
We arrived in Tehran at 7:30 p.m. with just enough time to shower and change for the plane. We left the hotel at 10:30 p.m. for our flight at 2:00 am. We had a delay of 1 1/2 hours, which gave us just enough time to buy some dates in the duty free shop.
We made it through customs, just barely. We bluffed our way through as a group. Then, packed Ahura in John’s dirty clothes and checked him through to Boston.
A 5-hour flight…. no more scarves…and the best wine and beer we’ve ever tasted…
Breakfast in Frankfurt courtesy of Lufthansa…and a place to hide for the long layover.
2:00 p.m. departure to Boston…
We all (Ahura included) arrived safe in Boston....

Thursday, October 16, 1997












Drive to the Caspian Sea…spectacular scenery.
Lunch was trout and Wiener schnitzel…
* NO MORE KEBABS… the standard meal for both lunch and dinner is bread, yogurt, barley soup, salad and kebabs. You can have your choice: lamb kebab, chicken kebab, beef kebab, minced kebab, mixed kebab, fish kebab…. but it’s all KEBAB!
* The new phrase on the tour, “pulling a John and Debbie”

Yet another 70’s former luxury hotel (ex-Hyatt) in Chalus—that could use a little upkeep.
I joined Andrea in the search for the Khomeni teapot…. to no avail.
Our gala graduation dinner
* Top 10 things heard in Iran: # 3 “Has anyone seen John and Debbie?”
Power failure during dinner.

Wednesday, October 15, 1997

Another day in Isfahan

More time in Isfahan


























We visited the Royal Square (Maydan-e Shah). On the north side, the Royal Qaysariyyen Bazaar; on the east side, Lotfallah Mosque; on the west side, Ali Qapu Palace; on the south side, the Shah Mosque.
At the the Shah Mosque (Masjed-e Emam), 400 years ago, they built it with tremendous ability for amplification…at one spot, you can hear 7 echos.

















Lotfallah Mosque (Masjed-e Lotfallah) – constructed between 1603 and 1617 as a private chapel for the imperial family, they have a peacock figure in the dome, with the tail illuminated by the sun, always pointing toward Mecca, no matter what the direction of the sun.
Kakh-e Ali Ghapu—a 7 story palace.
Shopping afternoon—we found a brass hanging lamp, 2 Ayatollah plates and a pair of scissors (for Ahura’s box). After a greasy kebab lunch at the local dive, we grabbed a taxi back to the hotel.
I continued the shopping for an hour; John enjoyed the local tearoom with some Iranian students.
Cyrus told us of a famous miniaturist near the hotel…. $450 later, we owned an original. (according to the artist, it’s based on an Omar Khyam poem. with men drinking wine, “but not too much”)

Tuesday, October 14, 1997

Isfahan to Tehran

We drove to a small village, Abuaneh. It was a search for the “green doors” (the toilets) – way too much driving, too much coffee…
We visited the mausoleum…Mecca facing “paradise”.
We saw the local tailor who tried to sell us pants.


























A local woman invited us into her house. The view from the roof was spectacular. Then, she invited us for tea and brought us biscuits, bread, candy, and fruit. She explained (through Hosseni) that she has no family, her only son is a teacher in Tehran.


































More mosques, more private homes in Kashan (believed to be the city from which the 3 Wise Men set out for Bethlehem)











Lunch at Fin Gardens, built by Shah Abbas I, in Kashan. We tried their local ice cream sandwich (rose water ice cream) and rose water noodles.












Knives are not normally available at restaurants, napkins only occasionally (they use Kleenex)
Kurdish expression: “It’s better to fight than to do nothing”
“Iranians love Americans, Americans love Iranians, but the governments are Great Satans”
We drove through Qom, home of Ayatollah Khomeni ( Qom = “fulla mullahs”)
Our final stop was at the Khomeni Mausoleum. We were one of the first Americans to see it. John and Dorothy added a US dollar bill to the offering.