Pusan to Kyongju

We had second thoughts about driving in Korea- since our ability to make any sense of Korean characters was nil and traffic was crazed. So, we cancelled the car and got on the express bus to Kyongju. A one-hour drive and we arrived at the bus terminal, got some maps and headed off for a recommended hostel, Han Jin Hostel. The proprietor, Mr. Kwon, spoke reasonable English (although he was a bit eccentric) and knew how to cater to the foreign traveler. The rooms were reasonably clean, travel info was everywhere, he had Internet access (2000 won), a washing machine (4000 won), a refrigerator with cold beer (1500 won) and the place was packed. All the other hotels in town looked to be completely empty. Amazing what a little ingenuity will buy you.
We walked around town- through an entire area filled with Korean X-er’s, music blaring from all the stores. It was good to see that it’s not only the US who has a clueless generation.
We met Mr. Kwon’s nephew who recommended a restaurant down the street, the Korean Tourist Restaurant. It was Saturday night and the place was packed with Korean men drinking beer, eating bulgogi and having food fights.

We got a table (low table on the floor with a grill in the middle. They put hot coals in the hole and a grill over it and you cook your own beef and garlic. Once cooked, you put it in lettuce leaves, smother it with hot sauce and kimchi and stuff it in your mouth). It was so good- although we must have stunk of garlic for the next few days.