Thursday, May 14, 1998

Tash-Rabat to Bishkek - Kyrgystan


Sleeping at 9000’ in a pup tent with a too small, too thin and uninsulated Russian K-Mart sleeping bag doesn’t make for a great nights’ sleep. It was rock hard ground and very cold but it was a mercifully calm night.

The local woman told us stories of how she married. The local Kirgyz tradition it that the man sees a girl he wants to marry and kidnaps her. She was kidnapped at 17 from the university.

James Brown quote of the day, “I’m glad I paid $300 a day for this…” (and he got the house to sleep in…. with the real sleeping bag…)
After breakfast, we finally got the group into the jeep for a trip to Tash Rabat, a 15thh C. caravanserai.
Photo courtesy of Flickr
After too much group coordination, we asked if we could hop a ride directly to Bishkek- blowing off Cholpan Alta and Lake Issykul. No problem- so we got our stuff and again blew off the group.
Our guide, Sergei was heard responding to a question about the history of Tash Rabat, “I don’t know anything about history”.
It was a 7 hour drive with a stop a Bob’s yurt for lunch—dried fish and noodles and beer.
We were almost to the top of the pass when the jeep started to lurch and sputter. The driver claimed bad gas, but the tank read empty. We ran on fumes until we got to the top and we coasted 8km down to find the only gas station that we’d seen all day.
Our driver was straight from central casting for a Russian soldier…. steely blue eyes, blonde hair, tall and lean.
The scenery was spectacular—wild horses and yaks, miles of poppies and snow-capped mountains. The new yurts look like tin railway cars on wheels. Lots of hero art throughout the countryside- concrete eagles and deer.
We arrived at Bishkek at 6:00 and headed to the Hotel Dostuk, a deluxe 50’s style suite with hot water, CNN, cold beer and laundry. We ordered dinner and got awful American food at outrageous prices- $51 for fried chicken cheese, bread and 2 bottles of wine.
We crashed and slept like babies—anything beats the tent.
Our floor lady tracked our every move.

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