Tuesday, May 12, 1998

Yarkand to Kashgar


Breakfast and it was back on the bus to the Taklamakan Desert. The guide and driver got lost and we drove for 1-½ hours, asking for directions every few km and finally made it to the desert. At Bob’s Big T Desert Jamboree, we walked the sand dunes for about 200-m into the desert.
Local kids showed up and Jack amazed and entertained them with balloons. They were thrilled. We thought we were on our way back when on the horizon a lone camel appeared and suddenly all four of the people (who swore they didn’t want to ride another camel) decided to take their turns being led through the dunes on a ratty ass camel. We opted to read by the bus.

Finally, we headed back for lunch and crafts. Lunch was outdoor dining at its best. It was Children’s Day- so it was a great people watch. Lunch was more noodles and samsa (dumplings with fatty pieces of lamb).
Then it was off to Ray’s Rugs and Frank’s Felts. We tried to get into Sam’ Silks but fortunately, it was closed.
It was a four-hour return with a slight detour due to flash flooding of the river. The river was running at 10’ over flood stage and it looked like it was running at least 30 mph. What was once a small creek when we left Kashgar was now over 200 yards wide. We tried to cross over at the main bridge but the police sent us back. The main bridge was underwater, so we diverted to the next bridge- only to find hordes of people; enforcer police and we were told that it would probably be 3-4 hours (the peak flood stage should be in about an hour and perhaps we could cross in 3 hours).
We headed for the local restaurant to drink tea with the police. An hour later, our guide through personal connections with the top officer arranged for a single vehicle to cross the bridge. It was an exciting crossing over a breathtakingly violent mud-filled river, but we made it across.
We returned to our hotel, blew off the group and headed to the Oasis Café. We did a blind taste test of the local beers….Xingjang beer won over Kashgar beer in two double blind tests. We had more good food and stayed until two obnoxious American couples with children arrived and all the patrons of the restaurant fled. We ordered beers for take out and headed for our room only to find a total power failure. All of the donkeys and the sheep went crazy.

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