We headed to the Muradiye Complex, dating from 1426. Since it was Memorial Day weekend in the States, it seemed appropriate to visit the tombs of some of Turkey’s great leaders. The complex has a series of 12 tombs dating from the 1400’s, including Sultan Murat II (1494-51). Since the Ottoman dynasty didn’t follow the practice of succession of the first-born, any son of a sultan could claim the throne upon his father’s death. So, the strongest son would have his brothers killed. Many of the tombs are filled with the brothers’ tombs. Sultan Murat II’s tomb has an opening to the sky so that the rain could wash his grave and his sarcophagus has no lid, following common Islamic tradition. Cem Turbesi, the youngest son of Mehmet the Conqueror has a mausoleum filled with Isnik tiles.
We stopped at the mosque of the complex and met our first muezzin (the folks that wake us up every morning at 4:15). He gave us a tour through the mosque. The locals were amazingly hospitable- and with virtually no tourists, we got the finest treatment.
Across the river was the Yildrim Beyazit Camii, the mosque of Beyazit I. Beyazit was brought down by Tamerlane, who defeated him and took him as prisoner at the Battle of Ankara in 1402.
Continuing our mosque/tomb tour, we went to the most beautiful of them, Yesil Cami (Green Mosque) and Yesil Turbe (Green Tomb). It houses the tomb of Mehmet I and his children.
Our final stop- the Emir Sultan Camii. This mosque/tomb is a favorite of Bursa’s pious Muslims and we saw a huge number of very traditionally dressed women and very emotional men surrounding the tomb.
Late lunch at Iskander’s Kebaps- a famous dish of Bursa. It’s basically lamb over pita bread, covered with tomato sauce, yogurt and butter. We topped off the lunch with another afternoon at the Jewish quarter restaurants for wine and beer
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