Madurai

9:30 start. Our mad Max driver- our new best friend. He wanted a photo of John and him---and , by the way, would also love to have a pair of shoes from the States.

Our first temple stop- the Kudalagar Temple for a view of the sitting and reclining Siva. We got an up close view of the gorpurum and a few photos.

Today was one of the designated wedding days in India. Only certain days, (not Saturdays or Tuesdays) - certain months- only during waxing moon- and all arranged marriages. The bridal parties were thrilled to see us- evidently; it’s good luck to have a foreigner at your wedding. John used the digi-camera to take a photo of the bridal group- and became an instant hit when he showed them the photo on the LCD . It took everything he had to just keep hold of the camera as everyone tried to get a look.

The next temple, Kochadi Temple, was truly bizarre….M-80’s exploding outside, dualing bells, incense, smoke, dust and Disney-esque characters.

The “cobra tree” was filled with eggs as offerings to the snakes that appear in the morning. People walked up with their addresses on paper and asked you to take their photos.

We wandered back to town and made a brief buying stop at the Emporium…a grotesque Kali—which will make a great bookend and an insane frog riding an elephant.

Walking the streets is an experience in itself…beggars and dodge-em cars. We found solace and cold beers at the Ruby Restaurant –where we “dined’ alfresco. Then it was back to the hotel for a rest. John was taken with the auto-rickshaw- and when he started honking the horn for the driver. Our driver stopped and asked John if he’d like to drive. Never missing an opportunity – he hopped in the front and took the controls. It was a crazed ride through the city, getting strange looks from the locals watching the crazy American at the wheel. We pulled into our hotel and gave the driver a large tip.

A shower (I’d never felt so grimy”) and a rest before beers at the Pandyan. The restaurant was empty—except for us and the mouse family living in the drapes by our table. We heard chirping and rustling---and watched the well-fed rodent cross the restaurant- returning with his evening meal. We beat a hasty retreat and tried the “Permit Room” at our hotel. Kingfisher beers and peanut then a Tandoori meal of more paneer and cauliflower.

How does one describe southern India….

First rule, take a video camera if you can. There’s no other way to truly capture the sensory overload of this country. Imagine walking a short distance through the city- within one city block, you’ll find hundreds of people in constant motion– women dressed in jewel colored saris, men dressed in un-tucked shirts and towels (dotis), most everyone is barefoot…. A

Add to the mass of humanity an assortment of a dozen or so sacred cows, dogs, goats and the occasional pig….Then add cars, bicycles, auto-rickshaws, ox carts, trucks and buses. The sights are equaled only by the smells….of people and animals in 90-degree heat with 90 % humidity coupled with exhaust fumes and the smell of cooking food… And then there’s the constant sound of horns…

After a few blocks of walking though the city, you’ll inevitably come upon the temple. After taking off your shoes and storing them with the locals, you walk through a gate lined with people begging for money or food. You find yourself facing a huge pyramidal structure- covered with colorful Disney-esque statues of the various Hindu gods and goddesses…. Gods with 4 arms and the head of an elephant, goddesses with three boobs.

And stories to make each of the gods and goddess real to the common people. Walking through the temple grounds, there are people praying, priest performing various services- with fire and ash, the temple elephant ready to bless you with the tap of his trunk on your head (for a small donation) and the inner temple sanctuary (non-Hindus forbidden from entering).
The feeling of city life is that of walking through a giant theme park.